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Old 05-06-2008, 11:30 AM   #21
OTB
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Originally Posted by Dnyce View Post
good tips...especially on the boot thing-gotta be a good firm shift, no matter what technique u use.

in my personal experience, clutchless worked alot better for me. fanning the clutch and shifting wot didnt help me e.t. any better, and clutchless shifting was more consistent. shifted like that for a year and a half, never had a tranny problem. i dont even think they backcut the trannys at the factory in 1980 like they do now.

one tip for clutchless-dont flap your whole elbow, just snap your wrist alil. you dont wana look like you trying to fly lol, plus all that movement upsets the bike alil. once you learn how to do one or both pretty well, just buy a airshifter. easier on the bike, and the fastest most consistent way to shift. cheaper than buying clutch plates all the time, or replacing a tranny if you screw up. but you should always know the fundamentals 1st.
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Old 05-06-2008, 11:52 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Phenix_Rider View Post
Some transmissions don't do it smoothly... ahem- Buells (or so I've heard)
I've read that they don't like it much. Haven't tried on the 1125
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Old 05-06-2008, 06:23 PM   #23
Becca_007
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Thanks for all the comments and suggestions!

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Originally Posted by Dnyce View Post
maybe you're too excited cuz your at the dragstrip, and not timing the shifting right? thats what i did my first time out. that, plus at the strip you shift at a higher rpm than the street, harder to get the timing right. i missed 2nd gear alot my 1st time out, sometimes 3rd too.
at what rpm/how are you launching? 2.2 seems kinda high. that thing is pulling hard at the finish line! what gear do you cross in?
Going down the strip I couldn't even hear my engine so i was glues to the RPM gauge. I'm sure timing is a part of it, but I also think I didn't have my clutch adjusted correctly. So then I started messing with it, made it worse, then got back to 'normal'. I honestly can't say if it's 4th or 5th at the finish. I know the RPMs are way up there and sometimes I shifted but sometimes I let it go.

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Next time you hit up 131, let me know, I'll go with you. I want to see what my Z750 will do.
Will do. I know a bunch from WMR are going on May 16th (a Friday) but I'm not sure yet whether I will run or even attend.

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Well your placement looks good, your all over the tank in the first few, so thats good.... Pics look great!!
This was the first time I convinced the boyfriend to come out with me and be my photographer. He did an awesome job.

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Originally Posted by OTB View Post
Try this for power shifts if'n you're having problems;

A. Adjust your clutch at home, when the bike is hot. The plates can swell and drag, so go and do a couple burnouts and then check freeplay; you'll likely find it's GONE after you've het it up a bit. Now adjust for free play and engagment. Improper indexing the 1-2 shift and/or neutral is the best indicator of a dragging clutch.

B. Technique. I don't know your size/strength, but a FIRM boot is required for full-throttle upshifts. If you continue having problems, you may want to consider track-pattern shifting (one up/five down), it'll give you more positve upshifts (I don't know if you can flip on the Zed or not without a lot of rigamaroll). Best technique is to get that foot on the peg asap during launch and preload the lever as if your going to do a clutchless upshift, but instead of backing off the throttle, leave it on WFO and I slide my fingers out towards the end of the clutchlever ball end for better leverage, then pull the clutch in ever so slightly till the shifter slides into the next gear. Yes, bunky, you will be replacing plates more often if you are hitting the strip. And, yes, the engine will be bouncing off the limiter for a second, but that's racing, right?

Clutchless upshifts at the strip don't work very well because you have to either back too far off the throttle to remove enough pressure to get it to shift, or you have to slam shift it (yanking up (or stomping down if you've a race shift pattern) hard enough to force the shift drum to rotate) but this is hell on shift forks and gear dogs, and you WILL eventually blow the trans.

If you are racing stock classes with no air or electric shifters, check your local rules, some classes you are allowed to use the kill switch method. Add a spring-loaded button-type kill switch at a comfortable distance from your thumb. Shift technique with this is the same as clutchless shifting: full throttle, preload the lever, and when you are ready to shift, just touch the kill switch for a second and the bike will shift slick as butter. A little practice with this and you'l be amazed at the speed of your shifts.

Just a couple old racer tricks............
Thank a ton. That explanation about the clutch makes perfect sense. Especially since I tend to hot lap it a lot. My boots are pretty stiff and after having them on for longer periods or a lot of shifting I always end up with a blister on my shifting heel. I'll have to look into the costs and possibilities of changing up the shift pattern because that sounds a lot easier. One of the first comments out of my mouth was, "I need an air shifter". Okay. I need to learn the right way first, and i can't afford it, but the words came out of my mouth!
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Old 05-12-2008, 02:11 AM   #24
mondos06cbr1000
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man i loved taking my cars to the dragstrip

my 03 cobra with 483 rwhp ran a 12.1 @ 119 on street tires with a 1.9 RT

if i got some drag radials and more practice easily in the 11s
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Old 05-12-2008, 02:43 AM   #25
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Do you launch in 2nd? Someone once said they do that.
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Old 05-12-2008, 03:29 AM   #26
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Do you launch in 2nd? Someone once said they do that.

bad idea
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Old 05-12-2008, 06:11 AM   #27
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I may go to the drag strip once, just to see what my bike and I are capable of in a straight line. Not going to be any time soon though.
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