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Old 02-01-2009, 10:44 PM   #21
FT BSTRD
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The best heated grips I have used are the Polly Heaters:


http://www.pollyheaters.com/ph400.htm


They heated great and were easy to install.


I also run heated vest. Makes all the difference in early/late and off season riding.
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Old 02-01-2009, 10:45 PM   #22
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You should find out how much wattage your alternator can handle, that will determine what you could use. For a sport touring bike the futura isnt all that good, it strains a bit when I run a heated jacket and gloves. I should be able to handle that and have about another 30 to 40% to use.

I have a gerbings jacket and gloves with a dual control thermostat. The thermostat is def key here so you can adjust the tems on the fly.

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Old 02-01-2009, 10:50 PM   #23
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if you switch to HID you'll also save yourself some wattage... 35w instead of 55w... PER BULB... so that's 70w on high rather than 110w or 130w (if your using 65w bulbs)

just remember when you fire up the bike and the lights... HID draws more power during ignition so make sure all other accessories are off during the time the HID's ignite.
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Old 02-01-2009, 11:12 PM   #24
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Dont the hid's pull more wattage than regular bulbs anyway?

When I start the bike up I make sure the heated gear is off too.

Tom
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Old 02-01-2009, 11:24 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommymac View Post
Dont the hid's pull more wattage than regular bulbs anyway?

When I start the bike up I make sure the heated gear is off too.

Tom
no... only during ignition... HID's while running are only 35w.

during ignition though they pull a lot more (don't know how much) that's why they make the delays that stop the lights from trying to ignite while your starting the bike... instead they delay 10 seconds...
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Old 02-02-2009, 03:02 AM   #26
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I have the 55w upgrade on my ballast but I would assume that after initial pull my bike isn't still at a slight advantage. I do have the relay/delay hooked up to it as well.

Well after looking it up, I think I equaled out no? h7s are showing at 55w.
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Old 02-02-2009, 03:07 AM   #27
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well i was quote'n numbers from my H4's... thought (read assumed) all the HID's were the same wattage...
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Old 02-02-2009, 03:15 AM   #28
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Sorry to be unclear as usual.

I looked up a regular h7 bulb and I found wattage to be 55w. I know that my HID kit came with a 35w ballast but I upgraded it to a 55w, so I was trying to make the conclusion that maybe my bike wasn't at any advantage after all?

I am pretty worthless when it comes to electrical stuff.
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Old 02-02-2009, 03:23 AM   #29
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ahh ok... didn't know they made an upgrade... yeah stock headlights... as far as I know... are all 55-65w. if you made the upgrade then yeah no advantage for you...

just wondering... but why the upgrade? I had the 35w on my ZZR and they're fuck'n bright as all hell. figure the upgrade would provide minimal light advantage but a lot more heat...
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Old 02-02-2009, 03:33 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ebbs15 View Post
ahh ok... didn't know they made an upgrade... yeah stock headlights... as far as I know... are all 55-65w. if you made the upgrade then yeah no advantage for you...

just wondering... but why the upgrade? I had the 35w on my ZZR and they're fuck'n bright as all hell. figure the upgrade would provide minimal light advantage but a lot more heat...

http://www.sharphid.com/

Under reference you can see the chart which shows the difference in lumens between the 35w and 55w upgrade on the 6000 kit. It is a difference of 3140 and 4800.

At time I literally figured the brighter the better. I don't want there to be a single fucking excuse for anyone to pull out and say they couldn't see me. That was my logic at the time.
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