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Old 11-30-2009, 08:15 PM   #11
Amber Lamps
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I'd re-check your buddy's soldering job if it were me... then I would look for a loose battery connection at the battery or at the junction under/behind the seat. It probably gets shook loose as you go down the road. Also, the starter lead sounds good too. Last, I'd look for and check the ground wire from the battery to the frame, if you have one.

I don't know if you have it already but...http://www.repairmanualclub.com/moto...x.php?dlid=203

Last edited by Amber Lamps; 11-30-2009 at 08:22 PM..
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Old 12-01-2009, 10:27 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by askmrjesus View Post
That would be the obvious place to start.

Step 1. Put a meter on the battery. Anything less than 12V, put it on a charger and proceed to step two.

Step 2. Check the voltage drop at startup. Put the meter on the batt, and hit the start button. If it drops more than 2-3 Volts, batt is probably fubar.

Step 3. Check output from stator. Jump the bike to get it running. Put the meter back on the batt, and measure the output while reving the motor. Should be 13.5 or higher. If not, bike is not charging the batt.

Step 4. Report back, and we'll talk about voltage regulators, (if need be).

JC
Step 3 it is. Charged up the battery overnight and the bike fired right up. it was between12.25 and 13 with the bike off. Went to 12.33 at idle and prety much stayed there, reved it up to 4k and didnt budge, it should be up around 14 something I believe so tom will be ordering yet another voltage regulator today. Turn around is about a week with the guy I deal with so that may be that for the year which mean I will at least get to put more miles on the buell.
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Old 12-01-2009, 10:35 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by Trip View Post
Interesting little tid bit to leave out there. Sounds like this bike is a big ball of fun in the electrical world.

The problems you describe, just fit a dying battery issue, hence why AMJ said it was obvious place to start. They don't last forever and need replacing.
According to Tigger they do.
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Old 12-01-2009, 11:12 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by tommymac View Post
Step 3 it is. Charged up the battery overnight and the bike fired right up. it was between12.25 and 13 with the bike off. Went to 12.33 at idle and prety much stayed there, reved it up to 4k and didnt budge, it should be up around 14 something I believe so tom will be ordering yet another voltage regulator today. Turn around is about a week with the guy I deal with so that may be that for the year which mean I will at least get to put more miles on the buell.
Hang on, let's try something else first.

The book I have (2003 ETV Mille Factory Man.) shows a test circuit- um, fuck it, I'll just scan it.

Ok, here it is:

Fuck. Hang on....
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Last edited by askmrjesus; 12-01-2009 at 11:12 AM.. Reason: Fucking thing sucks!
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Old 12-01-2009, 11:18 AM   #15
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Ok-



Right, where was I? Since you have an aftermarket VR, the values in this book may not be the same as what you need, so, call the dude and ask him what the resistance values are for the unit you have, then do the test.

JC
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Last edited by askmrjesus; 12-01-2009 at 11:22 AM..
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Old 12-01-2009, 12:02 PM   #16
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I have the futura shop manual so that should be in there and am 99% sure it is, just too lazy to go look right now

Another guy suggested checking the alternator so I will do that tonight since I need an extra pair of hands. So Iwill hold off till tomorrow before ordering anything.
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Old 12-01-2009, 12:07 PM   #17
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I have the futura shop manual
NOW you tell me!

While you're at it, look up the test for the diode module (should be under the seat).

JC
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Old 12-01-2009, 12:13 PM   #18
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According to Tigger they do.
Hahaha!!! It all depends on what your definition of "forever" is... for me, it's about 4 years.
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Old 12-01-2009, 12:23 PM   #19
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Ok found that in the manual is on the left side by the ecu. My volt meter does not have a diode tester in it so I would have to rig up abattery with a bulb to test it.

Tom
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Old 12-01-2009, 12:37 PM   #20
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My 79 Suzuki had a separate regulator and rectifier. When they went, I got an aftermarket R/R. Still wouldn't charge, even though the stator checked correctly. That's when I took the ground wire from the new R/R off the frame and connected it directly to the negative terminal of the battery. Has been charging perfect for over two years.
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